Used RV prices have dropped from their post-pandemic highs, which means there are real deals available right now on used travel trailers, fifth wheels, and motorhomes across Utah and Idaho. But a low sticker price on a used camper can turn into an expensive mistake if you skip the inspection step. Here’s what to check before you commit.
Start With the Roof
The roof is the first place to look on any used RV, and it’ll tell you a lot about the unit’s history. Check for cracks, tears, or missing sealant around vents, skylights, and seams. Any breach in the roof is a potential entry point for water, and water damage is the most expensive problem to fix on an RV.
On fiberglass and aluminum roofs, look for bubbling, separation, or discoloration near the edges. On rubber membrane roofs, which are common on Class C and Class A motorhomes, check whether the membrane has lifted or pulled away from the sidewalls. If it has, water has likely gotten in.
Does the Roof Show Signs of Delamination?
Delamination happens when moisture gets between the outer fiberglass skin and the inner wall of the RV, causing them to separate. You’ll see it as bubbling or wavy sections on the sidewalls. Press gently on the walls and listen for a hollow or soft sound. If it’s there, the repair can run into several thousand dollars, so factor that into your offer or walk away.
Check Every Inch for Water Damage and Mold
Water damage is the thing that kills used RVs. It shows up in places you wouldn’t expect, and it often hides behind cabinets, under flooring, and inside walls.
Run your hand along the floor, especially near the entrance, slide-outs, and windows. Soft spots in the floor typically mean moisture has gotten into the subfloor and started to rot the wood underneath. Check the ceiling for staining or discoloration. Look around faucets, the water heater, and anywhere plumbing runs through walls for signs of water leaks.
What Does Mold Look Like in an RV?
Mold often appears as dark spots in corners, behind cushions, or inside cabinets near the roof. It can also show up as a musty smell before you can see it. If an RV smells musty when you walk in, that’s not something ventilation will fix.
It’s a sign that moisture got in and sat there for a while. Mold remediation in an RV can be extensive and costly, so don’t dismiss the smell as a minor issue.
Inspect the Undercarriage and Frame
On travel trailers and fifth wheels, get underneath them if you can and look for rust and corrosion on the frame. A little surface rust is normal on older units, but deep rust or any structural corrosion on the frame rails is a serious red flag. Check the leaf springs, axles, and suspension components for damage, bending, or uneven wear.
What Should You Check on a Used Motorhome?
Used motorhomes need all the same checks as towable units, plus a few more. Look at the engine for any signs of leaks. Check for oil, coolant, or transmission fluid around the engine bay and underneath the unit. Note the mileage and ask about the maintenance history on the drivetrain.
A test drive is non-negotiable on a motorhome. Pay attention to how it handles, whether the engine hesitates, and whether anything pulls, shakes, or vibrates at highway speed. Utah and Idaho roads include mountain passes and long grades, so make sure the engine has enough power and that the transmission shifts smoothly under load.
Test Every Appliance and System
Don’t skip this step. Turn on the air conditioner and let it run until you feel cold air. Test the refrigerator on both electric and propane modes. Run the stove burners and the oven. Test the microwave. Turn on the water pump and run water through every faucet.
Check the hot water heater on both gas and electric settings. Test the electrical system by plugging in and running multiple things at once. Look at the breaker panel for any signs of heat damage or wiring that looks like it was done by someone who wasn’t a professional.
- Air conditioner: Run it until you feel cold air. A unit that takes too long to cool or sounds labored may need servicing or replacement.
- Refrigerator: Test it in both 12-volt and propane modes. It should reach a cold temperature within a reasonable time.
- Water pump: Turn it on and run every faucet. Listen for irregular noise or pressure drops that might indicate a problem.
- Slide-outs: Run them fully open and fully closed. Look for gaps in the seals when they’re closed and check the floor near the slide for soft spots.
- Upholstery: Check for tears, staining, or mold along the seams and under the cushions.
Ask for Maintenance Records
A seller who has maintenance records is a seller who paid attention to their RV. Ask for documentation of any warranty work, service history, or repairs. Look for any record of roof resealing, which should be done every year or two on most RV types. If there’s no record of it being done, budget for it.
If the unit still carries a remaining warranty, find out exactly what it covers and whether it transfers to a new owner. Many manufacturer warranties are non-transferable, but some extended warranties are. A used camper with a transferable warranty is worth more than one without.
Should You Get a Professional RV Inspection?
Yes, especially for any unit priced over $20,000. A professional RV inspection typically costs $200 to $500 and can save you from buying a used RV with hidden damage that would cost far more to repair.
The National RV Inspectors Association has a directory of certified inspectors you can search by location. An inspector covers the electrical system, roof, plumbing, appliances, and undercarriage in detail.
If a seller won’t allow an independent inspection before you buy, that’s a strong reason to walk away. Parris RV’s pre-owned inventory goes through a multi-point inspection process before units are offered for sale, which gives buyers a baseline level of confidence going in.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the most common problems with used RVs?
Water damage is by far the most common and costly issue. Check the roof, floors near slide-outs and windows, and the area around any plumbing for soft spots, staining, or mold. Delamination on the sidewalls is another frequent issue on older fiberglass units.
Should you get a used RV inspected before buying?
Yes. A professional inspection is worth the cost on any significant purchase. An inspector checks the electrical system, roof seals, plumbing, and all appliances in more detail than most buyers can manage on their own. If a seller refuses to allow an inspection, that’s a warning sign.
What mileage is too high for a used motorhome?
Diesel motorhomes can often run well past 100,000 miles with proper maintenance. Gas chassis motorhomes are more variable. What matters more than raw mileage is the service history and how the unit was used. A well-maintained motorhome with 80,000 highway miles may be in better shape than one with 30,000 miles that sat idle for years.
Is it worth buying a used RV from a private seller or a dealership?
Both can offer good value. A dealership like Parris RV typically provides a multi-point inspection, financing options, and post-sale support. Private sellers may price more aggressively but typically sell as-is. Either way, always inspect before you buy.
What should you check on slide-outs on a used RV?
Run each slide-out all the way open and closed. Look at the seals when they’re closed. Check the floor near the slide for soft spots, which indicate water has gotten in through the seal. Also check the slide walls and ceiling for any staining or discoloration.
Shop Parris RV’s Pre-Owned Inventory
If you’re shopping for a used RV in Utah or Idaho, Parris RV’s used inventory includes pre-owned travel trailers, fifth wheels, and motorhomes across four locations in Murray, Payson, and Pocatello. Stop by or call 801-268-1110 to talk with someone who can help you find the right unit at the right price.
